A survival guide for vegetarians in Southeast Asia: Part #1

7 10 2015

Fruit on sale in Laos

In Western society today, the phenomenon of the dietary requirement shows no sign of abating. Any one dinner table is virtually guaranteed to include at least one vegan, a pescatarian, a gluten-free, a low-carb, and maybe a paleo for good measure. Not so in Southeast Asia, where the only dietary requirement is meat, meat, meat with a side of fish.

Vegetarianism is generally looked on with bewilderment by those in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos (why wouldn’t you want to eat the tastiest and most nutritious part of the meal??) but there are manys way for the canny veggie to avoid meat and have great food in any of these countries.

How easy is it to be vegetarian in Southeast Asia?

Snacks on the streets of Hanoi

That depends entirely on what sort of vegetarian you are, and what sort of culinary experience you are after. If you are the kind who can stomach a splash of fish sauce here or a broth-that-might-have-had-meat-in-it there, you will have no difficulties at all. If you are a strict vegetarian intent on eating you own weight in street food, it will be a little harder – but not impossible by any means! And since dairy products are relatively rare in Southeast Asian cooking, being vegan is not actually a huge amount more difficult than being vegetarian. Hurrah!

Without further ado, here are the things you need to know:

Look for Buddhist restaurants

Monks collecting alms in Luang Prabang

Although most Southeast Asians are fervent meat-eaters, strict Buddhists do not eat any products made with meat or fish. Even meat-eating Buddhists tend to observe the traditional bi-monthly meat-free days, and there are restaurants across Indochina that cater to this demand. If you are a strict veggie, these are the best way to be sure that nobody’s snuck a shrimp into your noodles or a splodge of pâté into your bánh mì. Be aware that Buddhist food also means no dairy, so unless you are vegan, you might like to ask for an egg to be added for extra protein.

If you can’t find a Buddhist restaurant (or you’re sick of the sight of them), try a Western-style or an Indian restaurant, both of which should serve proper veggie fare and of which there will be plenty in any Southeast Asian city.

Beware of fish sauce

Beware fish sauce

For non-strict vegetarians, one way to find veggie options in Southeast Asia is to ask for your chosen dish to be made without meat. Though restaurants are usually very happy to oblige, the trouble with this method is that the concept of meat is not the same in Asia as it is in the West. All they will do to make your dish “meat-free” will be to literally pick out the meat – don’t expect veggie-friendly broth, oil or toppings, and certainly don’t expect them to hold the fish sauce.

(It’s a well-known fact that Southeast Asian people have fish sauce in their veins, not blood. Pretty much everything is flavoured with the stuff – I’ve heard they even add it to their coffee beans, and I’m not even sure if it was a joke or not).

The bottom line is: saying “I’m a vegetarian” doesn’t cut the mustard. If you are serious about avoiding animal-based products of all kinds, the best thing you can do is carry a list of the ingredients you can’t eat to show to your waiter before you start. Most of the time, the restaurant’s chef will be happy to oblige (although your waiter/waitress may return several times to ask “the chef says can I add X ingredient… can you eat it?”).

Check out the side dishes

Street-side buffets are a great place to build a veggie feast

Street-side buffets are a great place to build a veggie feast

A handy tip from Charlotte, our resident veggie Indochina expert, is to try building your own meal out of vegetable side dishes, rice, and toppings. This is her trusted, go-to method of eating locally in Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos – and she particularly recommends the combination of white rice, spring rolls, and garlic fired morning glory for the perfect (and very definitely vegetarian) feast.

Cơm Bình Dân are food stalls that cater to Vietnamese workers on their lunch breaks, with lots of different dishes kept (reasonably) warm under a glass display, as in a canteen. This is a good place to build a satisfying meal out of vegetarian side dishes – though be warned, sometimes there’s meat inside the tofu!

Make the most of the fresh fruit

Fresh fruit is everywhere - make the most of it!

Fresh fruit is everywhere – make the most of it!

Fresh, delicious, mouth-watering fruit is available in abundance throughout Southeast Asia, and is the boon of the travelling vegetarian. Take full advantage of it in smoothies, juices, or just as is – and you’ll never go hungry.

Stock up before you head into the wilderness

If you’re planning to spend much of your holiday “off the beaten track” in rural destinations, sticking to your meat-free guns is going to be tricky. In the countryside, there are fewer veggie-friendly restaurants and little understanding of the concept of not eating meat. Be sure to stock up on “just-in-case” veggie snacks before you head out into the wilderness!

Have a day with a local guide

My Hoi An & Danang guide, "Ha"

My Hoi An & Danang guide, “Ha”

We always recommend local guides to our clients in Southeast Asia. They are your bridge to the cultures you are visiting, and a good guide will be a wellspring of knowledge and tips to help make your trips that much more enjoyable. If you have dietary requirements, your guide should be able to point you in the direction of some good vegetarian restaurants, show you which street food is safe to try, and give general advice on how to survive as a veggie in their home country.

Take a cooking class

Taking a cookery class in the countryside near Hoi An

Taking a cookery class in the countryside near Hoi An

Cooking classes are one of our favourite experiences, and they can be arranged across Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. This is an excellent way to get to grips with the cuisine of each country, giving you a chance to peruse the local markets for fresh produce and learn how to combine ingredients to create some delicious recipes. As long as you advise the cooking school of your dietary requirements at the point of booking, you will be guaranteed a delicious, stress-free meal!

For some veggie-friendly foods and handy survival phrases, check out our next blog post – coming soon!

Living in the Mekong Delta

30 09 2015

The Mekong Delta is a myriad of waterways, orchards and paddy fields. This is where the Mekong River splits into giant tributaries that spread out to form the vast flatland stretching from Ho Chi Minh’s city limits to the Gulf of Thailand. This area is known as Vietnam’s Rice bowl and rightly so, the fertile land enables up to four rice harvests annually alongside plentiful exotic fruit and sugar cane.

The best and only way to properly explore this area is by boat, as you drift along the endless waterways, observing local life as it is conducted alongside or on the water.

Traditional rice barge with decorative eyes

Traditional rice barge with decorative eyes

There are several towns within the delta that you could use as a base, but I spent some time volunteering in My Tho.

Whilst planning my ten-month travelling adventure I decide that I would really like to take some time to volunteer. Being more of a practical person (and not well-versed in the ways of teaching), I was on the lookout for a building project.

Vietnam was to be the halfway point on my journey, and after some thorough research I found a building project in My Tho City in the Mekong Delta.

The project was to last four weeks and I would be working alongside other travellers and local builders to help with the construction of a small house for a disabled man.

After a night’s orientation in Ho Chi Minh City, where I met my fellow volunteers, we travelled the one-and-a-half hours to the riverside city of My Tho. On arrival we were met by the kind and welcoming English coordinator of the language school in the town, who was to be our point of contact for the next four weeks. We were all accommodated in a multi-storey house within the city, and were to have our own housekeeper – who proved to be an exceptional cook.

Mekong floating markets

Mekong floating markets

The next day we went to inspect the building site. Venturing down a small alleyway, we were greeted by local the building team and the shell of a one-room house. The main builder went by the name of Bob, and was one of the friendliest people I have ever met – with an infectious laugh.

There was a lot to be done and we set to work immediately. From then on, our day’s routine began with an early breakfast, then we made the short walk to the site and spent our mornings and afternoons together building the house.

The recipient of our labours was a relative of Bob’s: a man with a mental disability that meant he was unable to work or provide for himself. This was a project close to the hearts of everyone working on it and a chance to give a local man some much sought-after independence.

Slowly the house became to take shape; bricks were laid, plastering mastered (with a lot of touching-up by Bob!) and walls painted.

Afternoons and weekends were spent exploring the Mekong. This included early morning badminton matches in the park, lots of ice coffee, temple visits and cycling through the lush rice paddies and along the river. We were accompanied by local students and were invited into many of their relatives’ homes, where it was customary to be give coconut water (sipped straight form the coconut). I quickly grew to appreciate the unique taste!

During our final week we completed the house and held a handover ceremony within the freshly painted walls. A plaque was placed onto the wall and the man got a first glimpse of his new home, a wonderful moment to be part of, made all the more celebratory with the help of a picnic lunch accompanied with local rice wine!

I have fond memories of this unique place at the base of Vietnam; a place of warm hearts, picturesque countryside and busy lively waterways.

Mekong Delta at Sunrise

Mekong Delta at Sunrise

Unsurprisingly, the Mekong Delta is best visited during the dry season, which runs roughly from December to May.



Home Comforts in Hanoi

23 09 2015

Visiting a local home in the country you are travelling in can be a wonderful experience. In Hanoi, I had the chance to have just such an experience, when the Van family hosted me and my companions for the evening.

The family’s house was located in the suburbs of Hanoi where narrow lanes lead off the crowded streets. As land is at such a high price, the houses extend upwards for many stories along these streets. Mr Van is a 76-year-old war veteran with such a pleasant character that we felt instantly at home. He met his wife whilst they were both serving in the army and they have now been married for 50 years! They saved for 42 years to purchase the land that their house sits on and the surrounding land, which they gave to their five daughters, each of whom has also built her own house.

Green tea during home dinner

Green tea during home dinner

Home dinner

Home dinner

Taking off our shoes, we were led upstairs to the main living room where hot green tea was served – a tradition in Vietnam. Following introductions, dinner was served downstairs – a great spread prepared by Mrs Van. Another tradition is to welcome guest and start a meal by having a sip of homemade rice wine. The wine is fermented in a number of different ways and it was clear from the variety of glass jars around the house that Mr Van was a bit of a pro!

As with most Vietnamese meals the first dish was a noodle soup. This was swiftly followed by a variety of plates, including beef kebab, chicken soup, fried fish and picked vegetables. Each dish has a unique flavour and accompaniment – be it noodles or morning glory (the most popular green vegetable in Vietnam).

Rice wine!

Rice wine!

Mr Van home dinner host

Mr Van, our home dinner host

Once suitably full we reconvened upstairs, where Mr Van showed us the traditional one-stringed musical instrument he had made. He played this beautifully, his laughter making everyone in his company feel at ease.

The evening we spent with the Van family was the perfect way to gain a deeper understanding of Vietnamese culture, cuisine and family values. Talking to Mr Van and his family gave us a great appreciation for what the country and its people have experienced, and a new respect for their appreciation of life. We left feeling very humbled, and I would recommend anybody lucky enough to get the chance to spend some time at a Vietnamese home to take it. It’ll be an experience you’ll never forget!

Our top 5 things to do in Hoi An

17 09 2015
Boats on the riverfront in Hoi An

Boats on the riverfront in Hoi An

The World Heritage trading port of Hoi An, in central Vietnam, is many a traveller’s favourite haunt – and it’s not difficult to see why. The beautifully preserved, 15th-century architecture, the bustling waterfront, the high-quality markets and the lovely surrounding countryside all conspire to make this one of Vietnam’s most captivating destinations.

The following is our pick of the top five things to do in Hoi An:

1. Visit the night market

Hoi An is famous for its monthly lantern festival (also known as the full moon festival or “Ancient Town Night”), during which the town switches off its lights, closes its streets to traffic and becomes filled with colourful lanterns. Many tourists plan their entire Vietnam holiday around the festival, which means that Hoi An is always full to bursting with visitors at the time of the full moon.

While the festival is most certainly impressive, you should most certainly not despair if your holiday dates don’t match up. Even when the festival is not taking place, Hoi An takes on a magical, party-like atmosphere by night – with buzzing night markets, street-side bars and restaurants packed with both locals and tourists. Don’t miss the incredibly intricate pop-up cards, the hand-made wooden toys, and (of course) the ubiquitous lanterns.

Lanterns on sale at Hoi An's famous night market

Lanterns on sale at Hoi An’s famous night market

For a taste of Hoi An by night, have a look at this photoblog from my trip to Vietnam earlier this year.

2. Take a cookery class

Besides its lanterns, Hoi An is also famous for the high quality of its local cuisine. Thanks to this, there are now several local cookery schools where you can take a lesson in Vietnamese cooking. Our favourite classes begin with a visit to the local market (or organic farm) to pick out ingredients, proceed with a lovely boat ride along the river, and are held in a stunning setting out in the Hoi An countryside.

Enjoy a cooking class in the quiet countryside surrounding Hoi An

Enjoy a cooking class in the quiet countryside surrounding Hoi An

3. Get something tailor-made

It’s said that tailors outnumber other businesses two-to-one in Hoi An, and for anyone who’s wandered through the busy town centre, it’s a fact that’s easy to believe. This is a fantastic place to pick up a tailor-made suit, coat, jacket, dress – in fact, absolutely anything you like.

No commission is too unusual or complicated for a Hoi An tailor, so bring along a photo, leaf through the in-store catalogues, or even show them your own hand-drawn design. Then choose the perfect material, agree on a price, get measured, and wait to receive your perfect garment! Shop around to get the best price, and be sure to insist on a second fitting (at no extra cost).

Watch this space for our definitive guide on choosing the right tailor in Hoi An!

My Hoi An tailor

My Hoi An tailor

4. Go cycling in the countryside

Hoi An’s ancient town centre is its main attraction, but the downside of this popularity is that it can become oppressively crowded at times – particularly in the middle of the day. To escape the hustle and bustle, there’s no better way than to rent a bicycle and take a ride through the quieter outskirts and nearby countryside. We recommend taking the ferry across the river to Cam Kim Island, where dirt tracks wind past paddy fields and forests while the locals still make traditional basket boats by hand.

On yer bike

5. Take a night-time Vespa street food tour

Probably our favourite experience of all is an excellent evening street food tour of Hoi An run by our partners at Vespa Adventures. As part of the tour you’ll hop on the back of a vintage Vespa and zip around town, stopping to try the local delicacies at five different bars, taking a boat ride along the twinkling riverfront, making a pit stop at the night market, and enjoying plentiful included drinks.

The route and bars have been chosen for their excellent food and local flavour – they are certainly not your average tourist haunts! There’s simply no way that this tour can disappoint.

About to begin our evening Vespa tour!

About to begin our evening Vespa tour!

My Vespa street food tour in June was one of the best evenings I spent in Vietnam. Read my blog post here for more information and to find out how I fared!


Laos – Travelling up north, to Nong Khiaw

9 09 2015

Tour leader, Tara, has sent back a few photos and thoughts from Laos after travelling on the recent Indochina Encompassed tour  – enjoy!

Beautiful Laos Indochina Encompassed

Not too many travellers make it up to Nong Khiaw and get to see the stunning mountainous landscapes of the north of Laos. But they should!

Nong Khiaw region provides some amazing hiking experiences as well as leisurely walks along the terraced rice paddy fields.

Cruising along the Nam Ou river will reward you with breathtaking scenery and warm-hearted encounters with friendly villagers.

About one hour upstream from Nong Khiaw, you will find the sleepy town of Muang Ngoi. It’s a place where daily routine revolves around community life, chickens and cows are an ubiquitous part of streetlife and kids play with whatever they can find.

And friendly foreigners are welcomed to participate in local life.

Volunteer work in Laos Indochina Encompassed
Let yourself be surprised by Lao community life’s creativity  and optimism. Put the beautiful north region and Nong Khiaw on top of your ‘to visit in Laos’ list!

Angkor Wat: Our guide to Cambodia’s national icon

2 09 2015

The vast temple complex of Angkor Wat in Cambodia is one of Southeast Asia’s most recognisable and revered religious sites. It has been the subject of countless wanderlust-inducing photos and if you’re interested in the Southeast Asian region, the chances are that it’ll feature quite high up on your travel bucket list. But how much do you know about this ancient icon?

Angkor Wat reflected


Where?   5.5 km (3.4 mi) to the north of Siem Reap, Cambodia

What?   Originally a Hindu temple complex dedicated to the god Vishnu; now a Buddhist temple. It is also the tomb of its creator, Suryavarman II.

When was it built?   Over a period of more than 30 years in the early 12th century (beginning 1113)

Who built it?   Started by Khmer King Suryavarman II, finished by Jayavarman VII

How big is it?   Overall the site covers 2 sq km (200 hectares). The outer walls stretch for 1.5 km (0.93 mi) east to west, and 1.3 km (0.81 mi) north to south, with the entire complex enclosed by a 200-metre-wide moat.

What is it made of?   Mainly sandstone blocks, with some laterite

Angkor Wat is Cambodia’s most popular tourist destination and the country’s symbol, appearing on both its flag and its money – which is no surprise really, considering its staggering scale and intricacy. It is, in fact, the largest religious monument in the world – and has a greater volume than the Great Pyramid of Giza.



The temple complex combines two principles of Khmer architecture: the temple-mountain and the galleried temple, and features three ascending, concentric galleries with five towers at its centre. Admittance to each gallery would have been increasingly exclusive, with commoners allowed into the lowest level only and a sacred central sanctuary at the very top.

Plan of Angkor Wat's inner galleries (graphic by Baldiri)

Plan of Angkor Wat’s inner galleries (graphic by Baldiri)

The temple is thought to have been built using a combination of elephants, ropes, pulleys and bamboo scaffolding and contains millions of tons of sandstone – which was quarried 40 km (25 mi) away from the site and transported using a canal network. To put that in perspective, the massive limestone blocks used to build the Egyptian pyramids was quarried barely half a kilometre from the site!

What’s more, nearly every single surface of Angkor Wat has been carved with literally miles and miles of bas-reliefs depicting religious figures, scenes from Indian literature, warriors, animals and celestial creatures. The skill, organization, time and manpower that would have been required to finish the project is simply immense.

Bas reliefs at Angkor Wat

Bas reliefs at Angkor Wat


 Unlike most Cambodian temples, throughout its entire history Angkor Wat was never abandoned to rack and ruin. Early in its history it was sacked by the Chams in 1177, then in the 13th century it gradually moved from a Hindu place of worship to Theravada Buddhist use (which continues today).

Early European visitors to the site (such as Henri Mouhot) rhapsodised about the site’s amazing architecture, but found it difficult to believe that such a monument could have been built by the Khmers. Tragically, it was the very beauty of the Angkor site and other Khmer monuments that led directly to France invading Siam to take control of the ruins in 1863 – and they would not be restored to Cambodia until 1953.

Façade of Angkor Wat by Henri Mouhot, 19th century

Façade of Angkor Wat by Henri Mouhot, 19th century

The ruins underwent considerable renovations in the 20th century, which were stalled during the Khmer Rouge era before continuing in fits and starts from the late eighties until the present day.

Angkor today

As is always the case with a site of such historical importance and interest as Angkor, increased tourism brings with it both benefits and detractors. On the one hand, UNESCO recognition and higher footfall means more funding for renovations, but on the other it means more wear and tear, graffiti, potentially culturally insensitive tourists and harmful development in the surrounding area. Luckily, tourism has caused little damage to Angkor Wat so far, UNESCO has set up a wide-ranging programme to protect the ruins, and various conservation committees are involved in the discussion over how best to incorporate future tourism without sacrificing local values and culture.

Visiting Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat stands in Angkor Archaeological Park, which covers 400 square kilometres and contains the remains of several capitals of the Khmer Empire dating from between the 9th and 15th centuries. One of these capitals was the largest pre-industrial city in the world – covering an area larger than the size of modern Paris.

It is possible to reach Angkor in about 20 minutes by car or motorbike from Siem Reap – but we recommend renting a bike and cycling the 6km to the ruins. Bike rental outlets are generally open very early in the morning to cater to tourists who wish to do just this – and if you wish you can join a cycling tour that will take in a few of the most popular and lesser-known sites in the park. By helicopter or tethered hot air balloon are also amazing ways to see the ruins, if you have that kind of cash to spare.

Our Matt Spiller on a bike ride to Angkor Wat

Our Matt Spiller on a bike ride to Angkor Wat

You must buy a pass to visit the Angkor area. These can be purchased for one-day (USD 20), three-day (USD 40) or seven-day (USD 60) periods. The three-day pass can be used on any three days within a week, while the seven-day pass can be used on any seven days within a month.

Many visitors choose to arrive at Angkor Wat just before dawn (the park opens at 05:00) in order to watch the sun rise from behind the temple. We recommend getting there as early as possible to stay one step ahead of the crowds!

Angkor at sunrise

Sunrise at Angkor Wat.

Though the pictures may look peaceful, this is a very popular time to visit and you will certainly not be the only one lugging your camera down to get that perfect shot! There are two popular spots from which to photograph Angkor at dawn from across the pond, but the northwest corner of the northern pond is the better of the two. Near the end of March and September, at the equinoxes, the sun will rise directly above the central tower – creating an amazing photo.

Though you can never expect to get Angkor to yourself, one of the best times to look around is directly after dawn, when many tourists then head back to town for breakfast. In this excellent and comprehensive article by Travelfish, Caroline Major recommends taking in the galleries before climbing the tower – as most tourists will charge straight to the top of the temple right off the bat.

When you do come to climb to the summit, remember that there is an enforced dress code (you must cover your shoulders and knees – and not just with a sarong or scarf). Also be sure to check before you climb, as the summit is often closed for religious holidays.

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Preah Vihear: World Heritage Site declared safe for tourists at last

26 08 2015

Preah Vihear

Most travellers to Southeast Asia will never have heard the name Preah Vihear, so it may come as some surprise to hear that, along with Angkor Wat, the obscure northern temple is one of Cambodia’s two World Heritage Sites. Of course, for anyone who read our recent post, World Heritage Indochina, it will come as no surprise at all.

Preah Vihear map

Playing second fiddle to somewhere as grand and iconic as the temples of Angkor is never going to be easy, but there is another reason that Preah Vihear might have slipped under your radar until now – at least if you’re a Brit.

Up until the beginning of this month, Britain’s FCO (Foreign & Commonwealth Office) officially advised against travel to the Preah Vihear temple area and the Ta Krabey/Ta Moan temple area – both of which lie on the border between Cambodia and Thailand. Though a border dispute which began in 2008 and had concluded by around 2011 led to some localised volatility, it has been several years since the region has presented any real risk to travellers, and so the decision to remove the travel advisory has been universally welcomed.

Read more about the FCO’s Cambodia travel advice here.

Preah Vihear: arguably more atmospheric than the busier Angkor temples

Preah Vihear: arguably more atmospheric than the busier Angkor temples

So why bother visiting Preah Vihear at all when you could settle for the incredible temples of Angkor?

There are really two key reasons, both of which make Preah Vihear an attractive addition to your Cambodian itinerary. The first is that while the temples of Angkor (and especially the pièce de resistance, Angkor Wat itself) are undeniably, incomparably spectacular – but they are also incredibly popular, which means that you will inevitably be sharing them with hordes of other tourists. Preah Vihear, meanwhile, is much more remote and very rarely visited – meaning that it has an atmospheric quality that can be lost at the more popular temples.

Another reason to give consideration to Preah Vihear is its objective beauty and remarkable preservation. No other temple in Cambodia (or indeed throughout Indochina) can boast a view as spectacular, stretching out for miles across the surrounding plains, and the architecture itself is very impressive – if not quite as grand as that of Angkor Wat.

Huge crowds gather to watch the sunrise at Angkor Wat

Huge crowds gather to watch the sunrise at Angkor Wat

Visiting Preah Vihear

There are numerous ways to incorporate Preah Vihear into a longer Cambodian trip. Though it is just about possible to do the temple as a day-trip from Siem Reap (the road between the two destinations is good, and the journey takes around three hours), we generally recommend planning to spend at least one night in the vicinity of Preah Vihear as it is quite a long way to go for the day.

En route to Preah Vihear from Siem Reap, you might like to incorporate the beautiful and overgrown temple of Beng Mealea, the relatively unknown yet amazing temple of Koh Ker, or Anlong Veng – the final refuge of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge.

Stunning view from Preah Vihear

Stunning view from Preah Vihear

Fact file

Where? A surprisingly vexed question! Located on the border between Cambodia and Thailand, Preah Vihear has been at the centre of heated disputes between the two countries, both of which claim sovereignty over the region. The dispute was settled in 2011, and Preah Vihear remains the property of Cambodia as per the 1962 ruling by an International Court of Justice.

What? Preah Vihear (or Prasat Preah Vihear) is a Hindu temple built at the top of a 525-metre (1,722 ft) hill overlooking the surrounding plains in both Thailand and Cambodia. In 2008 the temple was inscribed by UNESCO, joining the Angkor complex to become Cambodia’s second World Heritage Site.

When was it built? The temple was built during the Khmer Empire, with construction beginning as early as the ninth century. Successive kings each added their own adjustments to the temple, and later generations repurposed the site to Buddhist use after the decline of Hinduism in the region.

Who built it? It’s thought that most of the surviving temple was built during the reigns of the Khmer kings Suryavarman I and II.

How big is it? Preah Vihear is unusual amongst Hindu temples in that it was built along a north-south axis rather than being orientated toward the east in the traditional fashion. The complex itself is 800 metres long (2,600 ft).

Preah Vihear


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